“Since I was younger I’ve always struggled with acne, as I got older it continued to spread but eventually it cleared as years went on. I was always trying to find products to help clear up my skin, I also went to a dermatologist for prescriptions so I was always putting on moisturizers, cleansers, or serums to help avoid my skin getting worse.

On top of that at the time I would also do my makeup from time to time which wasn’t helping it either, people would always tell me to “stop putting all that stuff on my face” because it’s only gonna worsen the acne problems I was already dealing with.

And now that my skin has fully cleared up after all those years I can say that now I have a simpler routine and I can also contribute makeup to my routine occasionally without having to worry about my skin breaking out or reacting to the products,” said an iSchool teacher.

What is the dark truth about cosmetics? The dark truth is that although cosmetics are marketed to be used as a way of expression or “beneficial” to the skin, the process behind these products aren’t guaranteed to be authentic or safe.

ChangeMyView, a Reddit journalist. “I saw a comic a few minutes ago on the frontpage, and it highlighted how men have less skincare issues than women, even though they do far less in terms of maintenance. Which got me thinking. Maybe women have such issues with skincare because they’re required to plaster their faces with cosmetics?… Which got me thinking even further… The cosmetics industry thrives on creating problems only it can solve.”

Big brands that sell skin care and makeup like  L’Oréal, Maybelline, MAC, Dior, etc, aren’t searching for authentic ingredients, nor are they looking for a safe way to export and manufacture these products before selling them to customers. The truth is beginning to reveal as the makeup industry continues to skyrocket.

The global cosmetic industry is enormous and extremely successful. Generating hundreds of billions in revenue annually as the cosmetic industries continue to rise. The beauty market generates around $500 billion according to retail sales in 2023, and the beauty industry has only increased more over time. Skincare products provided about 40% of that revenue, followed by the production of makeup products providing around 20% of that revenue, while the other 40% is coming from hair and nail care products.

The average American woman uses 12 products every day exposing herself to about 126 unique chemicals.  There are over 10,000 stabilized plastics chemicals used to formulate cosmetics and personal products, these industrial chemicals are the same ones that are used to grease gears or sterilize surgical equipment. Many drugstore skincare products contain a long list of filler ingredients. These substances typically do not provide much benefit, but can increase your risk of skin sensitivity, irritation or an allergic reaction. When you buy skincare products you’re most likely paying for untested and unregulated ineffective ingredients.

The FDA (Food and Drug Administration)is meant to regulate cosmetics and personal care products in the same way it does food and drugs to assure safety. But, the industry is largely unregulated by the FDA. The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act includes 112 pages of standards for food and drugs, but just two pages are dedicated to cosmetic safety. Technically, ingredients do not have to be approved by the FDA unless the product includes color additives. Companies aren’t required  to prove a product is safe before it goes to market, it’s also up to the company to recall a product once or if it’s found dangerous for consumers.

Using the right products is vital for maintaining results and making sure your skin is thriving. “Medical grade” professional skin care products are formulated with high quality ingredients and offer clinically proven results. Skin products should be recommended by someone with education and experience with skin types in order to guide you into the right path to use the correct formulated products for your skin.

Sasha, a sophomore at the iSchool, said, “I would say that everybody has a different skin type and everybody has a specific routine that fits well for them. I feel like going to a person who is specializing in your skin type or a professional is more reliable because they can find out what’s good for your skin and what’s not, and I just don’t think that I as a person can give you the most authentic feedback.”

The industry has faced serious allegations over the years, including the involvement in animal cruelty and child labor. These issues have been addressed years prior, but with the new generation of investigators, evidence has been gathered, allegations have been factually proven, and the truth behind the beauty industry has been brought to the light.

When testing for the right ingredients, companies often result in animals to help determine whether or not a product is safe for the human skin. Mice or rabbits are mainly the test subjects. Hundreds and thousands are taken into captivity and tested on against their will, substances are usually injected into the animals skin or eyes with no numbing meditation nor any treatment to help cure the injuries afterwards. Studies show that around 80% of major cosmetic brands are not cruelty-free and over 500,000 animals suffer and die as a result of these practices.

Ms. Colon, guidance counselor at the iSchool, said, “Years ago I remember in high school I had a teacher, and that was the first time I heard about animal testing. But at the time I never knew animals would be used as test subjects and I believed it was very cruel. This was decades ago so I hope we made progress in this area and I try my best to make sure if I’m using any beauty products that they don’t use harmful practices when manufacturing before I buy.”

According to Reuters, “A cosmetic may have anywhere from 50 to 100 ingredients sourced from multiple countries all over the world, and tracing materials to their origin is a daunting task.”

Mica,  a mineral that  adds the shimmer to products, is extracted and harvested by the most vulnerable and lowest-paid people in the world. The mining and manufacturing methods are excessively labor intensive and carried out in unsafe conditions.

Information has been reported about garment workers suffering from poor working conditions due to the harvesting and gathering of ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Its extraction has been connected  to forced child labor in  poor countries like India, where natural resources are mainly sourced. Moreover, labor laws are not enforced in these areas.

In August 2016, a Thomson Reuters Foundation investigation found several children in India had died in illegal mica mines over the span of two months, but that their deaths were covered up, and denied by the companies.

Maplecroft said governments rarely have the resources to monitor or regulate working conditions on small-scale farms, while they also struggle to keep track of their large supply chains.

Many brands have vowed to stop testing on animals, there is little regulation, but some governmental systems are making an effort to help animals. In the UK, they’re aiming to stop the use of animals for safety tests by the end of 2025. And earlier this year, The Humane Cosmetics Act was reintroduced in the House of Representatives to end the use of animal testing for cosmetics in the U.S. As well as prohibiting the sale of cosmetic products that have been newly tested on animals.

Still, people from all around the world can suffer from the process behind these products. It has a 50/50 chance of harming the skin, animals can be harmed in the process, and both animals and people can suffer from helping companies get the materials and statistics they need so customers can be satisfied.

Ms. Colon also said, “I think in America we’re shielded from these issues because of wealth so we don’t acknowledge these issues. I believe the solution is the power in boycotts,  and if consumers say I wont buy these products companies will understand if they are losing money and not profiting . If thousands of makeup consumers say they won’t shop from these brands unless they take a different approach it can bring more attention to the issue. There’s already companies that are clean and don’t use animals or children for their benefit so the other companies could do the same if they wanted to.”

Even though a lot of negatives come with the makeup industry there are also many alternatives to these problems, because if the same process continues to happen there will be the same outcome. Perhaps if companies tried to be more lenient towards  addressing these issues, there would be less concerns. Many people’s lives have been repeatedly put at risk, innocent animals continue to suffer, our environment, and generation, is starting to react to the overproduction overtime.

Secretly damaging the environment, affecting air pollution with fragrances that can damage the air quality, increasing deforestation, and wasting numerous amounts of plastic during packaging that is unable to be recycled.

The beauty industry produces at least 120 billion pieces of packaging each year. Given that 95% of cosmetic packaging is thrown away, 14% of plastic waste is sent to recycling, and only 9% gets recycled.

Wildlife is impacted by the production and disposal of cosmetic products. A lot of plastic packaging waste ends up in our rivers and oceans, presenting a threat to marine species. According to the Environmental Investigations Agency, about 633 marine species are affected by microplastics in the water.

Water is found in more than 30,000 cosmetics, though water is good for the environment and skin. The United Nations predicted that 52% of the world’s population will live in water-stressed regions by 2050. Considering that two-thirds of the world’s population is expecting water shortages, this amount of water consumption is not environmentally sustainable.

61 percent of lipsticks contained lead, with levels ranging up to 0.65 parts per million. In 2009, the FDA released a study that found lead in all samples of lipsticks it tested, levels ranging from 0.09 to 3.06 ppm. Another study in 2010 found lead in 400 lipsticks at levels up to 7.19 ppm.

Science proves there is no safe level of lead exposure. Lead is a neurotoxicant and can be dangerous even at little doses. Medical experts voice that any level of lead exposure is unhealthy.

Exposure to lead has been linked to many health concerns. Children are especially vulnerable to the effects of chemicals. Harsh and questionable ingredients can be found in makeup targeted towards children as well. For example face paint ,eyeshadow, lipstick etc. This can have an effect on these kids in the long run, slowing down growth and puberty since their body hasn’t fully developed meaning it can’t resist neurotoxicity.

“I do love the concept of skincare and makeup. It feels good to know that you’re taking care of your skin, and it’s fun to play around with different products. But I do think there needs to be alternative solutions to these issues. Brands don’t need to test on animals, there are other scientific ways and there’s also likely to be volunteers who might even want to help. This is a better solution than harming animals and practically killing kids with chemicals in fields, ” said Autumn, a sophomore at the iSchool.

Around 50% of women in the U.S use cosmetics on a day to day basis. Psychologists and beauty theorists have studied the motivations behind cosmetic use. Findings reveal that makeup is equally connected to emotions as it is about appearance. From boosting confidence to masking insecurities, the reasons we wear makeup are diverse.

Furthermore, Sasha said, “I feel nowadays there’s lots of people who mask their insecurities because of things like acne or sensitivity on their face, but I also know people who like to express who they are through makeup. For example James Charles during his fame loved to play around with makeup and do different looks expressing who he is as a person.”

Makeup plays a critical role in helping individuals feel more socially accepted or validated. For those who see flaws in their skin, like acne, scarring, etc, makeup is a way to conceal these flaws. While it can be used as a sense of expression, it can also reinforce the idea that our natural face is insufficient. Under these circumstances, beauty becomes a mask. Reliance on makeup can turn into cosmetic dependency, where individuals feel unlikely or “less than” without it.

“One thing I love about makeup is how it’s an art form, and it’s incredible what people are able to do with it. I love being around young people seeing the new funky things they do with it.  But I do worry when someone feels insecure it can become a mask and they might feel as though they can’t feel comfortable in their face without it,” said Ms. Colon.

Additionally, stepping away from a mental perspective and into the general  issues. There needs to be a change in the cosmetic industry. There’s many different ways to please their audience while also being considerate of the environment and generations put at risk.

Many young workers have lost their lives behind these companies and there is no response from any other brands listed.  Even dogs and sea animals are suffering and losing their population due to the regulations of the cosmetic industry.

Furthermore the ingredients used in the biggest brands aren’t proved to be authentic nor proscribed. These ingredients aren’t checked by any authentic authority, meaning you don’t factually know what you’re really putting on your skin or where it comes from. A dermatologist could give you a way better product to help the skin rather than experimenting with random products. These have been ongoing issues for years and years.

In summary, there are a variety of solutions to these issues that can take place from customers and the cosmetic industry.

On the consumer’s side, if people speak or act out about the allegations, companies will have no choice but to respond and take action if it’s affecting their production and income.

Regarding companies, brands, and the industry as a collective, there are many changes that can be made to create a safer and healthier environment. Instead of animals being tested on there is research available that can help with the formulation process as well as human volunteers who would like to help. Along with the labor/working conditions the FDA and the industry needs to be more aware of their supply chain system and what goes on in the fields where workers are sent to collect resources for their testing.

If the nation, as a community, doesn’t start to try and fix these worldwide issues the problems will only worsen. Consumers and the industry need to be more considerate of the environment and how they can work together to keep the environment sanitary and the community safe.

“Advertising doesn’t reflect reality—it manufactures dissatisfaction,” said Jean Kilbourne.